The real Thailand is still here, and closer than you think... Here you can talk to friendly natives, swim in clean water, breathe fresh air, sunbathe in a truly quiet cove and eat superlative seafood, far from the tourist herds: Ko Sichang.
You'd never think you were only 100 km from Bangkok, yet you can be on the ferry to this magic island just two hours after you clear Customs. Less than an hour from Pattaya. Beautiful beaches, great snorkeling and biking in spectacular scenery, temples and palace ruins--it's all here. Plus living traditions in a traffic-free way of life whose roots in the past are still deep. Fish, rent a kayak, meditate or learn massage. Enjoy a superb steak with a bottle of fine wine at yesterday's prices. All you have to do is look...
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Haad Saai Kaew
Ko Sichang has many beaches, all with cleaner, clear water than any mainland beach in the northern Gulf.
By far the biggest, best and most popular is Haad Tham Phang (Collapsed Cave Beach). There you'll find all the conveniences a tourist could want, minus jet skis. Other beaches are smaller, more secluded and often pristine. None of these places has lifeguards, but the drop-off is very gradual at all the beaches, and the surf is seldom any threat. In the names below, we've left out the word "haad" or "beach", which is necessary when asking directions.
Haad Saai Kaew is the most secluded of Ko Sichang's accessible beaches. Especially during the southwest monsoon, it can have calm, crystal clear water, and no people. There's a variety of coral and some large fish waiting for the snorkeler with a good enough sense of direction (or one of the local youngsters trained as guides) to find the somewhat overgrown stairway down the cliff about 500 meters south of the Old Palace, immediately north of the pier of the less-than-scenic oil tank farm.
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Bat island
Just south of Ko Sichang is the island of Koh Khaangkhaao. It has by far the nicest beach, and the best snorkeling in the archipelago--the best coral is about 100 m offshore on the main, northern beach, and around the smaller island Ko Thaai Taa Muen just to the southwest of Bat Island.
It's a great destination for a day or half-day fishing / swimming / snorkeling trip--if you like these activities at all, a trip to Bat Island is a must. There are bungalow accomodations on the beach facing the main island, where you can usually find cold drinks and at least a few basic Thai dishes. Boat hire is B800 for an outboard that will hold about 5 adults, and about B2,000 for all-day hire of a larger boat with bathroom and room for a dozen people. Click here for another look at the island. Pan & David can put you in touch with the boat operators.
Tham saai
The beach at Tham Saai (Sandy Cave) disappears at high tide, but is very nice when the water's low. (At high tide you can swim off the rocks, but watch out for cuts from the very sharp oyster shells.)
This beach is just to the seaward side of Wat Tham Yai Prik, and from time to time one may see the monks and nuns from the temple swimming, or sitting in meditation on the cliffs above. Be prepared for some heavy breathing when you climb 136 steps back up to Sripitsanu Bungalows, where you can get a cold drink and a snack.
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Thaa wang
There's a nice little beach--not in the least secluded, very popular with the islanders--on the south side of the lighthouse promontory, just in front of the Emerald Pavilion in the Old Palace grounds. It can make a good place for young kids to take a swim, or grown-ups who want to cool off after a thorough exploration of the palace grounds. You can get a fresh-water shower in the bathrooms at the entrance to the palace.
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Tham Phang
Tham Phang (Collapsed Cave)
Beach is far the most popular on the island.
As the picture shows, it boasts canvas deck chairs and umbrellas, inner tubes, snorkels and masks, and kayaks for rent. A few meters inland you'll find a modest restaurant, bungalows, and facilities for a shower and change after your swim.
Samlor fare from the market area is about B80 each way, an expensive legacy from the days when the road was a very rough dirt track. It's worth extending the ride out to the end of the point where the cave is, and coming or going, ask to take the road over the hill by Wat Tham Yaai Prik, which offers some spectacular views.